I have to admit that I love surfing a LOT. Even at my advanced age I still am a gremmie at heart and get excited before every paddle out. For a good chunk of my life, except growing up on Long Island and since moving to Jacksonville nine years ago, I did not live on the coast and did not get the opportunity to surf as much as I'd like to have. Having to do the nine to five bit for thirty plus years also cut into my surf time.
As such I suppose I'd have every right to surf every chance I could. Well I do get the opportunity to surf a great deal now which is great but I have to admit I'm glad I have other interests, that I like to occupy my time with like writing, painting, playing tennis and volunteering, that I believe make my life a great deal more enriched.
The fall before last we experienced two straight weeks of epic surfing conditions which were the result of two tropical storms churning off our coast for the duration. I ended up surfing for all but three of those days. Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed every minute of those sessions and surfed well but I was actually relieved when the swell dropped so I could get on to thinking about something else (And that wasn't just because I was surfed out and spent)
I guess in many regards It's good to live in an area where we get our flat spells between good surf events. Not only does it make those epic days even more special but it also gives us a chance to pursue other avenues that enrich us and others.
It must be even harder to stay balanced in an area that gets consistent waves all year long. That good surf would be beckoning and it would be tough to pass on yet one single day of ripable surf.
One Sunday a few years ago I went to a mass in Venice Florida and in his sermon the priest got on the retirees in attendance that spent every day golfing or sitting around playing cards or watching TV. he reminded them that there was a reason they were still alive and that it wasn't just to fulfill their own self gratification. He suggested instead that especially with all of their maturity and life experiences that they consider volunteering some of their time and sharing their talents with others.
I always try to keep that in kind when considering my own life. I would like to leave this world knowing I made a difference and made the best use of my time and talents. Having done so would make the memories of my surfing sessions all the more sweet.
Thanks for listening and I will catch you again next week. Aloha, Paul