I'm sure everyone has been given a mathematical equation that is difficult to work out. Often finding the answer can take a great deal of time and effort and sometimes the answer is very apparent and is solved quickly.
From my years of surfing I have found that getting a place wired and figuring things out is much the same as figuring out an equation only if may take a greater physical effort to do so.
Sometime the conditions and the wave itself presents themselves with easy answers. The wave is just the right size and shape and has just the right power to easily launch me into the wave at just the right time and place to work it as best I can. Also, when riding at the same spot a lot it is easier to figure out what the wave is going to do and where it is going to break.
Fortunately/unfortunately it doesn't always work like that. I say fortunately because it would soon become boring if the wave did just the right thing all of the time and we wouldn't have the chance to call upon all of our skills and mental fortitude. I say unfortunately as often it becomes a frustrating endeavor to work things out.
There are times during a nor'easter or sloppy, big or strong off-shore days where it seems to take me forever to get the place wired and work things out to get even one good ride. While those sessions can become frustrating, finally working it out can be very rewarding. That is one of the reasons why I surf in almost any conditions including cold slop and often on one of my boards that isn't the best suited for the conditions at hand. I figure if I can somehow work things out on those days then it will make the good ones all the more pleasurable and easier to get wired.
I have some friends that only surf when the conditions "are right". While I understand their thought process to a point, I believe they are cheating themselves out of a lot of potential fun. Sure it's a bummer to have a bad session but after all at least it can be a good workout.
So I guess what I'm saying is don't let bad or difficult conditions keep you out of the water or from surfing a place you're not familiar with just out of fear of getting shut out. You just might surprise yourself and find mental and physical resources you didn't think you had.
Thanks for dropping in and see you again next week. Aloha, Paul
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