Friday, May 9, 2014

Surfing blog, what's to come

As a surfer of over forty years I have a lot of stories to tell and observations about the sport of surfing that has had such a profound impact on my life. Some of them are in my personal story "Chicken of the Sea' and my soon to be released novel "The Nonconformist' but many just roll around in my mind from time-to-time that I would like to share. As a bit of a story teller and writer I like to challenge the reader and elicit feelings and strike nerves. In the future I plan on a regular basis (hopefully weekly as long I remember to) to write about the sport of surfing, the environment that surrounds it and ways I have kept myself even at such an advanced age (I'm in my sixties) relevant. Hopefully some of my posts and questions, stories and ideas will challenge the reader and elicit a response or strike that nerve. It's how I learned from my predecessors and helped me grow in the sport. To me there is so much more to surfing than simply riding waves. It's a feeling, a dance, a way of life and much, much more. My first ride literally changed my life and in a way saved it. As such I feel I owe a lot to the sport and want to share that stoke and feeling with others. It's probably why I'm such a Pied Piper when it comes to teaching it to others and seeing their broad smiles after their first ride gives me a high no drug can provide. So if you surf on into my blog I hope you enjoy what you read and that it strikes a positive nerve in you. Mahalo, Paul

No comments:

Post a Comment