When I think about what makes for a great surf spot so many variables come to mind. Certainly the wave itself is a large contributing factor. Whether it be the size of the wave, the length of ride, shape, consistency and power all come to mind and certainly have a great bearing on how good a surf locale is.
While this is obvious there are other factors that for me help to determine how much I like a given spot that may not be as obvious. Some of those factors are my history with the spot, the beauty of the area, the climate, crowds, the vibe in the water (localism vs. acceptance), who surfs there (my buds), what lurks in the waters, bottom conditions and not least of which the cleanliness/health of the waters.
Thinking of the last item health of the waters Huntington Beach comes to mind. I have surfed the spot a handful of times and found it to be a great place to surf and a fun wave to ride. Unfortunately, at times, especially after heavy rains it has been closed for a period of time often enough due to water quality issues to be a concern.
From the standpoint of beauty and history I have to say my session at Steamer Lane about fifteen years ago was most memorable for me. The wave itself is a beauty, the rides are long, the challenge great and the scenery is awesome. I also found it a bit intimidating with all of the kelp, sea creatures and the difficulty of trying to get out onto the rocky cliff after the session. The wave itself however made all of that irrelevant in the final analysis.
I have to admit that I have never really encountered any serious localism in my forty years plus of surfing. Maybe it is the way I have of getting along with people or just have been due to being at the right place at the right time. Who knows. I know localism exists but I do believe is one is respectful and kind that it is less likely to affect them.
Crowded spots by and of themselves can create that feel however. I have always loved surfing at the VA Beach jetty but on a crowded day with good surf it is a dog-eat-dog as it gets. I usually can hold my own in any lineup but I must admit I will generally prefer a less crowded surf spot even if the break is not so good than fight for less waves at an out of control crowded spot.
One year I finally got to surf in Hawaii on the Big Island. It was an absolute dream of a lifetime for me to do so. Even though I would have loved to surf the North Shore of Oahu it was still Hawaii to me. One day I got to surf at a break in Hilo and the waves were good. The only issue I had with it was getting used to the coral/rock/sea urchin bottom. Being largely used to sandy bottom beaches it really got into my head at first.
As far as consistent breaks go I have to put the Outer Banks of NC at the top of my list. There are countless quality spots there and if one is willing to drive a bit then a surfable spot can be found on almost any given day.
Having grown up and learning to surf on Long Island at Gilgo and other beaches I always enjoy getting back there to surf. The waves are a well kept secret but most of all it just holds so many memories for me.
I have fond memories of surfing at York Beach Maine while living in NH but I must admit it takes a special person to brave those frigid waters on a year round basis.
In the final analysis while surfing epic waves and hurricane swells is a huge rush especially when I have a great session, I suppose the best times had and my most fond memories are of getting to surf with friends. My main spot is 30th Ave S, Jax Beach. There is a great crew there and a good vibe. Several weeks ago we experienced a day of solid chest + waves that were super long and clean. I have an awesome session but most of all enjoyed sharing it with my friends. In the final analysis I guess that I would prefer sharing marginal waves with them than great waves by myself.
So I guess as they say, beauty and fun are in the eyes/mind of the beholder.
Thanks again for checking in and catch you next week. Thanks and Aloha, Paul
Thursday, June 26, 2014
Monday, June 16, 2014
Old Guys DON"T rule but......
Despite what the t-shirts say, and what we senior surfers would like to think, old guy's/gal's don't rule (unless you're Kelly Slater who will probably still be winning titles when he's sixty). The truth is, most sports are made for and performed best by the young. But just because that's the case, it doesn't mean you can't still perform, advance and rip when we get older.
When I started surfing in the sixties there really weren't many old dudes in the water. First of all it just wasn't around long enough and secondly it was thought to be only for the young. As time went by many fellow surfers dropped by the wayside thinking they were in fact too old to surf and it was time to grow up.
I didn't start competing until I was in my thirties and thought it would be piece of cake to win in my division for the very reason that I thought most surfers my age had long since given it up. Boy was I wrong. It seemed like the ones who kept surfing were the good ones.
That's all changed as more older surfers are still out there and have found you can surf (if you are dedicated) for a very long time. What I have found however that many my age have either continued to ride longboards only or are content to do what they always have done on a board and don't challenge themselves. Fortunately there are the exceptions, guys and gals who continue to ride both short and longboards and let their bodies tell them what they can and can't do and not their minds.
I'm now in my sixties and my primary board is a 5'11" modified twin fin (actually quite light and performance orientated). I also ride a 6'2" baked potato model I shaped, a 6'4" thruster, a 6'8" mini gun and a 9' longboard I use on those days where it is the right thing to use.
When I asked my shaper Tony at COS to shape me a twin fin like I saw in the shop his first response was "there's no way you can handle that board. You're at least in your fifties and don't have the quickness nor enough upper body strength needed". I could have listened to Tony (after all I trust him and he knows his stuff) but somehow my mind still told me I could ride the thing..
I'm glad I went with my gut because I not only was able to ride the board in all conditions from small to overhead surf but it has enabled me to do things on a board I never thought I could.
I am fortunate in that most of my surfing buddies are WAY younger than me and they push me to keep up with them. As I don't want to look bad in their eyes I generally go for about as many waves as they do and also for the bigger sets.
There are times I forget just how old I am and as such set high expectations and am always trying something new. I think that more than anything keeps me young at heart. I'm no idiot (at least no doctor has told me so) and I know that one day the wheels will fall off and my old body just won't be able to perform the way I'd like but in the interim I'm going to be thankful for every session I'm fortunate enough to have and I hope when that day comes I will be OK with it.
I guess the crux of what I'm trying to say is just because we might be getting older, we shouldn't put mental limitations on ourselves and that we can always learn something new. After all, what's the worse that could happen?
As a parting note that kind of addresses the above, last Saturday I helped coach at the Florida Surfing Associations Wave (Wounded) Warriors event. I have been fortunate to have been involved with this for the past three years. All of the 70 or so participants certainly had a valid excuse for not participating but did so. It should be noted that every WW got their rides and went away feeling stoked and better for the experience. Paul West, who runs FSA and the program was told by the WW heads that the surfing events are the most enjoyed events of all by the vets. So I guess if they refuse to put ;imitations on them selves then so can we.
Thanks for dropping in and see you next week. Aloha, Paul
When I started surfing in the sixties there really weren't many old dudes in the water. First of all it just wasn't around long enough and secondly it was thought to be only for the young. As time went by many fellow surfers dropped by the wayside thinking they were in fact too old to surf and it was time to grow up.
I didn't start competing until I was in my thirties and thought it would be piece of cake to win in my division for the very reason that I thought most surfers my age had long since given it up. Boy was I wrong. It seemed like the ones who kept surfing were the good ones.
That's all changed as more older surfers are still out there and have found you can surf (if you are dedicated) for a very long time. What I have found however that many my age have either continued to ride longboards only or are content to do what they always have done on a board and don't challenge themselves. Fortunately there are the exceptions, guys and gals who continue to ride both short and longboards and let their bodies tell them what they can and can't do and not their minds.
I'm now in my sixties and my primary board is a 5'11" modified twin fin (actually quite light and performance orientated). I also ride a 6'2" baked potato model I shaped, a 6'4" thruster, a 6'8" mini gun and a 9' longboard I use on those days where it is the right thing to use.
When I asked my shaper Tony at COS to shape me a twin fin like I saw in the shop his first response was "there's no way you can handle that board. You're at least in your fifties and don't have the quickness nor enough upper body strength needed". I could have listened to Tony (after all I trust him and he knows his stuff) but somehow my mind still told me I could ride the thing..
I'm glad I went with my gut because I not only was able to ride the board in all conditions from small to overhead surf but it has enabled me to do things on a board I never thought I could.
I am fortunate in that most of my surfing buddies are WAY younger than me and they push me to keep up with them. As I don't want to look bad in their eyes I generally go for about as many waves as they do and also for the bigger sets.
There are times I forget just how old I am and as such set high expectations and am always trying something new. I think that more than anything keeps me young at heart. I'm no idiot (at least no doctor has told me so) and I know that one day the wheels will fall off and my old body just won't be able to perform the way I'd like but in the interim I'm going to be thankful for every session I'm fortunate enough to have and I hope when that day comes I will be OK with it.
I guess the crux of what I'm trying to say is just because we might be getting older, we shouldn't put mental limitations on ourselves and that we can always learn something new. After all, what's the worse that could happen?
As a parting note that kind of addresses the above, last Saturday I helped coach at the Florida Surfing Associations Wave (Wounded) Warriors event. I have been fortunate to have been involved with this for the past three years. All of the 70 or so participants certainly had a valid excuse for not participating but did so. It should be noted that every WW got their rides and went away feeling stoked and better for the experience. Paul West, who runs FSA and the program was told by the WW heads that the surfing events are the most enjoyed events of all by the vets. So I guess if they refuse to put ;imitations on them selves then so can we.
Thanks for dropping in and see you next week. Aloha, Paul
Friday, June 13, 2014
What do you love and how do you show your love
Certainly people (well at least hopefully they do) love their families, friends and possessions and would do almost anything for them even to the point of risking their lives for them. That's natural and expected but what about showing our love for other things like animals, nature, the environment and strangers.
Unfortunately we don't always feel the same way about those things and often take them for granted.
Talking about the environment and our oceans, lakes and rivers in particular, we often don't treat them with the love we should even though they and the creatures that live in them give us so much pleasure.
We have left trash, plastics and cigarette butts on the beach which end up in them causing pollution and harm to them and the creatures that dwell within them. We dump tons of chemicals on our lawns that end up running into our lakes, rivers and oceans making them sick.
Recently the Five Gyres group surveyed ever nook and cranny of our oceans and no matter when/where they dipped their nets they always found plastics. Toxic Runoff has caused sickness to both animals and people and caused numerous beach closures, and things like red tide.
If you're like me you've spent a lot of time either, boating fishing and/or surfing and have gotten great pleasure from those activities. And like me you've probably noticed changes in those things that are troubling.
For years those things troubled me but I didn't know what I could do about it. Fortunately in recent years especially since joining the Surfrider Foundation and the Native Plant Society and getting better educated on the issues I now feel like I can make a positive difference and give back to the environment and the things that have given me so much pleasure.
Whether it be joining in on a beach or lake/river clean-up, learning how Ocean/River Friendly Gardening can cut down on runoff and reduced use of chemicals and water, or learning how native plants can help with the above or simply using the principals of reduce, reuse and recycling we can make a difference.
All it takes is getting involved and showing our environment the love it deserves.
Thanks for caring and for tuning into my posts. Mahalo and Aloha, Paul
P.S. I promise next weeks post will be a fun one.
Unfortunately we don't always feel the same way about those things and often take them for granted.
Talking about the environment and our oceans, lakes and rivers in particular, we often don't treat them with the love we should even though they and the creatures that live in them give us so much pleasure.
We have left trash, plastics and cigarette butts on the beach which end up in them causing pollution and harm to them and the creatures that dwell within them. We dump tons of chemicals on our lawns that end up running into our lakes, rivers and oceans making them sick.
Recently the Five Gyres group surveyed ever nook and cranny of our oceans and no matter when/where they dipped their nets they always found plastics. Toxic Runoff has caused sickness to both animals and people and caused numerous beach closures, and things like red tide.
If you're like me you've spent a lot of time either, boating fishing and/or surfing and have gotten great pleasure from those activities. And like me you've probably noticed changes in those things that are troubling.
For years those things troubled me but I didn't know what I could do about it. Fortunately in recent years especially since joining the Surfrider Foundation and the Native Plant Society and getting better educated on the issues I now feel like I can make a positive difference and give back to the environment and the things that have given me so much pleasure.
Whether it be joining in on a beach or lake/river clean-up, learning how Ocean/River Friendly Gardening can cut down on runoff and reduced use of chemicals and water, or learning how native plants can help with the above or simply using the principals of reduce, reuse and recycling we can make a difference.
All it takes is getting involved and showing our environment the love it deserves.
Thanks for caring and for tuning into my posts. Mahalo and Aloha, Paul
P.S. I promise next weeks post will be a fun one.
Friday, June 6, 2014
Passing on the stoke of surfing
This morning I was thinking about why we were put here on earth by God. I'd like to think it wasn't just for our own benefit and that we are here to love others, help make this world a better place and to be happy.
This weekend I will be teaching surfing to a large group of youngsters the Super Grom event sponsored by the Florida Surfing Association. The event is run three times each summer and generally is attended by around 150 kids eager to learn how to surf. The event is free to all of the kids and they get lessons, lunch and a goodie bag. To say the least they love it and go away stoked.
I have volunteered as an instructor at the event as well as others for Wounded Warriors, Silent Surfers, Life Rolls On and other such events every year. Instructing at the event where each instructor has at least ten sessions in the water is grueling to say the least for all of the volunteers especially one as old as me. But despite all of that I always come away from it with the awesome feeling that I helped make someone's day and that they will get to enjoy the sport for years to come.
Seeing the smiles on the kids faces is great in and of itself but when I get a comment like "you make me smile" or " I came back again this year hoping to have you as an instructor" is awesome and makes me feel like I am making a little bit of a difference and the world a better place.
Surfing on it's own is a most gratifying sport but as with any endeavor it is a bit hollow if not shared with others. I have had great sessions on my own in epic surf but find it much more gratifying when shared with my friends even if the surf is marginal.
As I've said many times before I believe surfing has contributed immensely to my mental, physical and spiritual well being and based on discussions with others I know it has done the same for them. It means so much to me in fact that I am a bit of a Pied Piper of surfing in that even though I am a private surfing instructor I end up teaching the sport for free most of the time and that is fine with me.
So if you haven't ever done so find a way to use your gifts and pass them along to others. You'd be surprised at how good you'll feel. And if you already do then keep up the good work.
Thanks for dropping in. Mahalo and Aloha. Paul
This weekend I will be teaching surfing to a large group of youngsters the Super Grom event sponsored by the Florida Surfing Association. The event is run three times each summer and generally is attended by around 150 kids eager to learn how to surf. The event is free to all of the kids and they get lessons, lunch and a goodie bag. To say the least they love it and go away stoked.
I have volunteered as an instructor at the event as well as others for Wounded Warriors, Silent Surfers, Life Rolls On and other such events every year. Instructing at the event where each instructor has at least ten sessions in the water is grueling to say the least for all of the volunteers especially one as old as me. But despite all of that I always come away from it with the awesome feeling that I helped make someone's day and that they will get to enjoy the sport for years to come.
Seeing the smiles on the kids faces is great in and of itself but when I get a comment like "you make me smile" or " I came back again this year hoping to have you as an instructor" is awesome and makes me feel like I am making a little bit of a difference and the world a better place.
Surfing on it's own is a most gratifying sport but as with any endeavor it is a bit hollow if not shared with others. I have had great sessions on my own in epic surf but find it much more gratifying when shared with my friends even if the surf is marginal.
As I've said many times before I believe surfing has contributed immensely to my mental, physical and spiritual well being and based on discussions with others I know it has done the same for them. It means so much to me in fact that I am a bit of a Pied Piper of surfing in that even though I am a private surfing instructor I end up teaching the sport for free most of the time and that is fine with me.
So if you haven't ever done so find a way to use your gifts and pass them along to others. You'd be surprised at how good you'll feel. And if you already do then keep up the good work.
Thanks for dropping in. Mahalo and Aloha. Paul
Friday, May 23, 2014
Jack Johnson-Walks the walk on his "All at once" tour
This past Tuesday I was privileged to have manned the Surfrider Foundation booth along with fellow activist Patrick Snyder at Jack Johnson's "All At Once" tour concert at the St Augustine Amphitheatre in St Augustine Beach. Jack had invited six environmental non-profit groups to have booths at the concert.
Before getting into the heart of my subject matter I want to say that the concert itself was awesome and had a laid-back feel to it. Jack mixed in both old and new tunes and delivered them seemingly at the top of his game. The crowd quickly got into the feel of it all and were up on their feet for most of the show. Jack's music seems to hit a chord with a wide group of all ages and backgrounds.
What makes his concerts different from many is Jack and his band and colleagues. There was no big pyrotechnic display, no ego's brought to the stage and I and I'm sure many others came away feeling like a friend of theirs was playing for them.
Now to the heart of my story. Unlike a lot of other performers Jack walks the walk and is true to his beliefs. He and his crew are diligent in making sure his concerts have a very low environmental impact and indeed actually benefits the local environment. (See his web-site for specifics)
Jack also backs it up by donating all of the profits from his tour to environmental and other worthy causes. I'm sure it would be hard to name too many groups and entertainers who back it up to that level.
Jack is from Hawaii and has a deep surfing background that not only weaves it's way into his music but also his psyche. He has a deep love and respect for the environment and the oceans in particular and wants to help protect them.
I suppose I shouldn't have been by I was both surprised and elated that Jack took the time to visit with all of the volunteers and non-profit participants to discuss his mission and to find out more about ours. He even sat for group pictures ( I was lucky enough to sit beside his for them).
Being an environmental activist and volunteer is not an easy thing especially these days and at time can be very demanding and frustrating when you don't feel you are making a big enough impact. Thankfully the Jack Johnson's of the world are here to spread the word and make us feel like we can make a difference.
I know it inspired me to keep up the good fight and continue to do the little bit I do to help the cause. And in the end whether we are a celebrity or just an average Joe/Joelle isn't that all we can do and if so that's good enough to make a big difference.
So thanks once again Jack for what you do and keep up the good work.
Before getting into the heart of my subject matter I want to say that the concert itself was awesome and had a laid-back feel to it. Jack mixed in both old and new tunes and delivered them seemingly at the top of his game. The crowd quickly got into the feel of it all and were up on their feet for most of the show. Jack's music seems to hit a chord with a wide group of all ages and backgrounds.
What makes his concerts different from many is Jack and his band and colleagues. There was no big pyrotechnic display, no ego's brought to the stage and I and I'm sure many others came away feeling like a friend of theirs was playing for them.
Now to the heart of my story. Unlike a lot of other performers Jack walks the walk and is true to his beliefs. He and his crew are diligent in making sure his concerts have a very low environmental impact and indeed actually benefits the local environment. (See his web-site for specifics)
Jack also backs it up by donating all of the profits from his tour to environmental and other worthy causes. I'm sure it would be hard to name too many groups and entertainers who back it up to that level.
Jack is from Hawaii and has a deep surfing background that not only weaves it's way into his music but also his psyche. He has a deep love and respect for the environment and the oceans in particular and wants to help protect them.
I suppose I shouldn't have been by I was both surprised and elated that Jack took the time to visit with all of the volunteers and non-profit participants to discuss his mission and to find out more about ours. He even sat for group pictures ( I was lucky enough to sit beside his for them).
Being an environmental activist and volunteer is not an easy thing especially these days and at time can be very demanding and frustrating when you don't feel you are making a big enough impact. Thankfully the Jack Johnson's of the world are here to spread the word and make us feel like we can make a difference.
I know it inspired me to keep up the good fight and continue to do the little bit I do to help the cause. And in the end whether we are a celebrity or just an average Joe/Joelle isn't that all we can do and if so that's good enough to make a big difference.
So thanks once again Jack for what you do and keep up the good work.
Wednesday, May 14, 2014
What surfing means to me and how it chaged my life
Well here goes my first installment of my weekly surfing blog. Before I get started, as an update things are progressing well with the upcoming release of my novel "The Nonconformist". My friend and photographer Jed Waldo took photo's for the cover which I sent to my publisher. It also seems very likely now that my screenplay adaption of the book will become a movie. More to come later.
My life's journey especially when surfing is involved has been a long and interesting one to say the least (learn more from my personal story "Chicken of the Sea"). In that book I say that surfing saved my life and I still feel that way. After almost drowning at a young age in Atlantic City I became extremely afraid of the ocean and despite becoming a competitive swimmer and sailor I didn't dare venture into the ocean off of Long Island where I live. That fear coupled with a very low degree of self-confidence made surfing an activity I never dreamed of pursuing.
That all changed however when our Science teacher Kevin Kelly who was part owner in Bunger Surfboards started a surf club at Bay Shore High School where I attended in the 60's. Due to constant prodding from my friends I joined the club, bought a used board and one day finally got up the courage to paddle out. I only caught a few waves that I rode prone that day but the feeling I got from it, though not removing the fears I had, instilled a stoke in me that has lasted to this day.
I firmly believe now that God gave me surfing to give me the strength and confidence I needed then and now that has gotten me through all the trials and tribulations of my life and has led me to the point of being able to even write about it with so much passion. Besides God and family it is the glue that helps bind me together. It is truly a dance for me and helps me to express myself in ways I can't fully explain or understand.
Though now in my sixties I still am a grom at heart. I approach every session like it was my first and am still trying to learn new things. I own five boards between a 5'11" modified twin fin (my primary board), a 6'2" thruster I shaped myself, a 6'4" hybrid thruster, a 6'8" thruster and a 9' longboard.
I am extremely blessed to be able to ride all of those boards, teach surfing to others and enjoy the sport. I know that one day the wheels will fall off so to speak and I hope at that time I will accept it and be content to live off of the many fond memories I have of the sport. But until that day comes I will continue to make the most of the gift of surfing that has been given to me.
I hope that the sport has meant as much to you as it has me and if you do surf I hope you continue to enjoy it for as long as you can. If you've given it up and miss it or feel you're too old to start up again then give it another shot. And if you never have surfed for whatever reason (maybe too scared like me) but wanted to then give it a shot. It might just change your life.
Until next week take care. Aloha, Paul
My life's journey especially when surfing is involved has been a long and interesting one to say the least (learn more from my personal story "Chicken of the Sea"). In that book I say that surfing saved my life and I still feel that way. After almost drowning at a young age in Atlantic City I became extremely afraid of the ocean and despite becoming a competitive swimmer and sailor I didn't dare venture into the ocean off of Long Island where I live. That fear coupled with a very low degree of self-confidence made surfing an activity I never dreamed of pursuing.
That all changed however when our Science teacher Kevin Kelly who was part owner in Bunger Surfboards started a surf club at Bay Shore High School where I attended in the 60's. Due to constant prodding from my friends I joined the club, bought a used board and one day finally got up the courage to paddle out. I only caught a few waves that I rode prone that day but the feeling I got from it, though not removing the fears I had, instilled a stoke in me that has lasted to this day.
I firmly believe now that God gave me surfing to give me the strength and confidence I needed then and now that has gotten me through all the trials and tribulations of my life and has led me to the point of being able to even write about it with so much passion. Besides God and family it is the glue that helps bind me together. It is truly a dance for me and helps me to express myself in ways I can't fully explain or understand.
Though now in my sixties I still am a grom at heart. I approach every session like it was my first and am still trying to learn new things. I own five boards between a 5'11" modified twin fin (my primary board), a 6'2" thruster I shaped myself, a 6'4" hybrid thruster, a 6'8" thruster and a 9' longboard.
I am extremely blessed to be able to ride all of those boards, teach surfing to others and enjoy the sport. I know that one day the wheels will fall off so to speak and I hope at that time I will accept it and be content to live off of the many fond memories I have of the sport. But until that day comes I will continue to make the most of the gift of surfing that has been given to me.
I hope that the sport has meant as much to you as it has me and if you do surf I hope you continue to enjoy it for as long as you can. If you've given it up and miss it or feel you're too old to start up again then give it another shot. And if you never have surfed for whatever reason (maybe too scared like me) but wanted to then give it a shot. It might just change your life.
Until next week take care. Aloha, Paul
Friday, May 9, 2014
Surfing blog, what's to come
As a surfer of over forty years I have a lot of stories to tell and observations about the sport of surfing that has had such a profound impact on my life. Some of them are in my personal story "Chicken of the Sea' and my soon to be released novel "The Nonconformist' but many just roll around in my mind from time-to-time that I would like to share. As a bit of a story teller and writer I like to challenge the reader and elicit feelings and strike nerves. In the future I plan on a regular basis (hopefully weekly as long I remember to) to write about the sport of surfing, the environment that surrounds it and ways I have kept myself even at such an advanced age (I'm in my sixties) relevant. Hopefully some of my posts and questions, stories and ideas will challenge the reader and elicit a response or strike that nerve. It's how I learned from my predecessors and helped me grow in the sport. To me there is so much more to surfing than simply riding waves. It's a feeling, a dance, a way of life and much, much more. My first ride literally changed my life and in a way saved it. As such I feel I owe a lot to the sport and want to share that stoke and feeling with others. It's probably why I'm such a Pied Piper when it comes to teaching it to others and seeing their broad smiles after their first ride gives me a high no drug can provide. So if you surf on into my blog I hope you enjoy what you read and that it strikes a positive nerve in you. Mahalo, Paul
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
