This morning I was thinking about why we were put here on earth by God. I'd like to think it wasn't just for our own benefit and that we are here to love others, help make this world a better place and to be happy.
This weekend I will be teaching surfing to a large group of youngsters the Super Grom event sponsored by the Florida Surfing Association. The event is run three times each summer and generally is attended by around 150 kids eager to learn how to surf. The event is free to all of the kids and they get lessons, lunch and a goodie bag. To say the least they love it and go away stoked.
I have volunteered as an instructor at the event as well as others for Wounded Warriors, Silent Surfers, Life Rolls On and other such events every year. Instructing at the event where each instructor has at least ten sessions in the water is grueling to say the least for all of the volunteers especially one as old as me. But despite all of that I always come away from it with the awesome feeling that I helped make someone's day and that they will get to enjoy the sport for years to come.
Seeing the smiles on the kids faces is great in and of itself but when I get a comment like "you make me smile" or " I came back again this year hoping to have you as an instructor" is awesome and makes me feel like I am making a little bit of a difference and the world a better place.
Surfing on it's own is a most gratifying sport but as with any endeavor it is a bit hollow if not shared with others. I have had great sessions on my own in epic surf but find it much more gratifying when shared with my friends even if the surf is marginal.
As I've said many times before I believe surfing has contributed immensely to my mental, physical and spiritual well being and based on discussions with others I know it has done the same for them. It means so much to me in fact that I am a bit of a Pied Piper of surfing in that even though I am a private surfing instructor I end up teaching the sport for free most of the time and that is fine with me.
So if you haven't ever done so find a way to use your gifts and pass them along to others. You'd be surprised at how good you'll feel. And if you already do then keep up the good work.
Thanks for dropping in. Mahalo and Aloha. Paul
Friday, June 6, 2014
Friday, May 23, 2014
Jack Johnson-Walks the walk on his "All at once" tour
This past Tuesday I was privileged to have manned the Surfrider Foundation booth along with fellow activist Patrick Snyder at Jack Johnson's "All At Once" tour concert at the St Augustine Amphitheatre in St Augustine Beach. Jack had invited six environmental non-profit groups to have booths at the concert.
Before getting into the heart of my subject matter I want to say that the concert itself was awesome and had a laid-back feel to it. Jack mixed in both old and new tunes and delivered them seemingly at the top of his game. The crowd quickly got into the feel of it all and were up on their feet for most of the show. Jack's music seems to hit a chord with a wide group of all ages and backgrounds.
What makes his concerts different from many is Jack and his band and colleagues. There was no big pyrotechnic display, no ego's brought to the stage and I and I'm sure many others came away feeling like a friend of theirs was playing for them.
Now to the heart of my story. Unlike a lot of other performers Jack walks the walk and is true to his beliefs. He and his crew are diligent in making sure his concerts have a very low environmental impact and indeed actually benefits the local environment. (See his web-site for specifics)
Jack also backs it up by donating all of the profits from his tour to environmental and other worthy causes. I'm sure it would be hard to name too many groups and entertainers who back it up to that level.
Jack is from Hawaii and has a deep surfing background that not only weaves it's way into his music but also his psyche. He has a deep love and respect for the environment and the oceans in particular and wants to help protect them.
I suppose I shouldn't have been by I was both surprised and elated that Jack took the time to visit with all of the volunteers and non-profit participants to discuss his mission and to find out more about ours. He even sat for group pictures ( I was lucky enough to sit beside his for them).
Being an environmental activist and volunteer is not an easy thing especially these days and at time can be very demanding and frustrating when you don't feel you are making a big enough impact. Thankfully the Jack Johnson's of the world are here to spread the word and make us feel like we can make a difference.
I know it inspired me to keep up the good fight and continue to do the little bit I do to help the cause. And in the end whether we are a celebrity or just an average Joe/Joelle isn't that all we can do and if so that's good enough to make a big difference.
So thanks once again Jack for what you do and keep up the good work.
Before getting into the heart of my subject matter I want to say that the concert itself was awesome and had a laid-back feel to it. Jack mixed in both old and new tunes and delivered them seemingly at the top of his game. The crowd quickly got into the feel of it all and were up on their feet for most of the show. Jack's music seems to hit a chord with a wide group of all ages and backgrounds.
What makes his concerts different from many is Jack and his band and colleagues. There was no big pyrotechnic display, no ego's brought to the stage and I and I'm sure many others came away feeling like a friend of theirs was playing for them.
Now to the heart of my story. Unlike a lot of other performers Jack walks the walk and is true to his beliefs. He and his crew are diligent in making sure his concerts have a very low environmental impact and indeed actually benefits the local environment. (See his web-site for specifics)
Jack also backs it up by donating all of the profits from his tour to environmental and other worthy causes. I'm sure it would be hard to name too many groups and entertainers who back it up to that level.
Jack is from Hawaii and has a deep surfing background that not only weaves it's way into his music but also his psyche. He has a deep love and respect for the environment and the oceans in particular and wants to help protect them.
I suppose I shouldn't have been by I was both surprised and elated that Jack took the time to visit with all of the volunteers and non-profit participants to discuss his mission and to find out more about ours. He even sat for group pictures ( I was lucky enough to sit beside his for them).
Being an environmental activist and volunteer is not an easy thing especially these days and at time can be very demanding and frustrating when you don't feel you are making a big enough impact. Thankfully the Jack Johnson's of the world are here to spread the word and make us feel like we can make a difference.
I know it inspired me to keep up the good fight and continue to do the little bit I do to help the cause. And in the end whether we are a celebrity or just an average Joe/Joelle isn't that all we can do and if so that's good enough to make a big difference.
So thanks once again Jack for what you do and keep up the good work.
Wednesday, May 14, 2014
What surfing means to me and how it chaged my life
Well here goes my first installment of my weekly surfing blog. Before I get started, as an update things are progressing well with the upcoming release of my novel "The Nonconformist". My friend and photographer Jed Waldo took photo's for the cover which I sent to my publisher. It also seems very likely now that my screenplay adaption of the book will become a movie. More to come later.
My life's journey especially when surfing is involved has been a long and interesting one to say the least (learn more from my personal story "Chicken of the Sea"). In that book I say that surfing saved my life and I still feel that way. After almost drowning at a young age in Atlantic City I became extremely afraid of the ocean and despite becoming a competitive swimmer and sailor I didn't dare venture into the ocean off of Long Island where I live. That fear coupled with a very low degree of self-confidence made surfing an activity I never dreamed of pursuing.
That all changed however when our Science teacher Kevin Kelly who was part owner in Bunger Surfboards started a surf club at Bay Shore High School where I attended in the 60's. Due to constant prodding from my friends I joined the club, bought a used board and one day finally got up the courage to paddle out. I only caught a few waves that I rode prone that day but the feeling I got from it, though not removing the fears I had, instilled a stoke in me that has lasted to this day.
I firmly believe now that God gave me surfing to give me the strength and confidence I needed then and now that has gotten me through all the trials and tribulations of my life and has led me to the point of being able to even write about it with so much passion. Besides God and family it is the glue that helps bind me together. It is truly a dance for me and helps me to express myself in ways I can't fully explain or understand.
Though now in my sixties I still am a grom at heart. I approach every session like it was my first and am still trying to learn new things. I own five boards between a 5'11" modified twin fin (my primary board), a 6'2" thruster I shaped myself, a 6'4" hybrid thruster, a 6'8" thruster and a 9' longboard.
I am extremely blessed to be able to ride all of those boards, teach surfing to others and enjoy the sport. I know that one day the wheels will fall off so to speak and I hope at that time I will accept it and be content to live off of the many fond memories I have of the sport. But until that day comes I will continue to make the most of the gift of surfing that has been given to me.
I hope that the sport has meant as much to you as it has me and if you do surf I hope you continue to enjoy it for as long as you can. If you've given it up and miss it or feel you're too old to start up again then give it another shot. And if you never have surfed for whatever reason (maybe too scared like me) but wanted to then give it a shot. It might just change your life.
Until next week take care. Aloha, Paul
My life's journey especially when surfing is involved has been a long and interesting one to say the least (learn more from my personal story "Chicken of the Sea"). In that book I say that surfing saved my life and I still feel that way. After almost drowning at a young age in Atlantic City I became extremely afraid of the ocean and despite becoming a competitive swimmer and sailor I didn't dare venture into the ocean off of Long Island where I live. That fear coupled with a very low degree of self-confidence made surfing an activity I never dreamed of pursuing.
That all changed however when our Science teacher Kevin Kelly who was part owner in Bunger Surfboards started a surf club at Bay Shore High School where I attended in the 60's. Due to constant prodding from my friends I joined the club, bought a used board and one day finally got up the courage to paddle out. I only caught a few waves that I rode prone that day but the feeling I got from it, though not removing the fears I had, instilled a stoke in me that has lasted to this day.
I firmly believe now that God gave me surfing to give me the strength and confidence I needed then and now that has gotten me through all the trials and tribulations of my life and has led me to the point of being able to even write about it with so much passion. Besides God and family it is the glue that helps bind me together. It is truly a dance for me and helps me to express myself in ways I can't fully explain or understand.
Though now in my sixties I still am a grom at heart. I approach every session like it was my first and am still trying to learn new things. I own five boards between a 5'11" modified twin fin (my primary board), a 6'2" thruster I shaped myself, a 6'4" hybrid thruster, a 6'8" thruster and a 9' longboard.
I am extremely blessed to be able to ride all of those boards, teach surfing to others and enjoy the sport. I know that one day the wheels will fall off so to speak and I hope at that time I will accept it and be content to live off of the many fond memories I have of the sport. But until that day comes I will continue to make the most of the gift of surfing that has been given to me.
I hope that the sport has meant as much to you as it has me and if you do surf I hope you continue to enjoy it for as long as you can. If you've given it up and miss it or feel you're too old to start up again then give it another shot. And if you never have surfed for whatever reason (maybe too scared like me) but wanted to then give it a shot. It might just change your life.
Until next week take care. Aloha, Paul
Friday, May 9, 2014
Surfing blog, what's to come
As a surfer of over forty years I have a lot of stories to tell and observations about the sport of surfing that has had such a profound impact on my life. Some of them are in my personal story "Chicken of the Sea' and my soon to be released novel "The Nonconformist' but many just roll around in my mind from time-to-time that I would like to share. As a bit of a story teller and writer I like to challenge the reader and elicit feelings and strike nerves. In the future I plan on a regular basis (hopefully weekly as long I remember to) to write about the sport of surfing, the environment that surrounds it and ways I have kept myself even at such an advanced age (I'm in my sixties) relevant. Hopefully some of my posts and questions, stories and ideas will challenge the reader and elicit a response or strike that nerve. It's how I learned from my predecessors and helped me grow in the sport. To me there is so much more to surfing than simply riding waves. It's a feeling, a dance, a way of life and much, much more. My first ride literally changed my life and in a way saved it. As such I feel I owe a lot to the sport and want to share that stoke and feeling with others. It's probably why I'm such a Pied Piper when it comes to teaching it to others and seeing their broad smiles after their first ride gives me a high no drug can provide. So if you surf on into my blog I hope you enjoy what you read and that it strikes a positive nerve in you. Mahalo, Paul
Tuesday, April 29, 2014
Fletcher Middle School presentation
On 4/28/2013 I was invited to give a lecture regarding the Surfrider Foundations Ocean Friendly Garden program and other conservation topics to three combined classes at Fletcher Middle School in Jacksonville Beach, Florida. I am thankful for having the opportunity to speak with their students who really get it when it comes to the environment and conservation. Great students, teachers and a great school.
The Nonconformist novel release and other updates.
It has been four years since my last entry but I have been very busy writing, volunteering, painting and doing crafts, working odd jobs and two years heading up the First Coast chapter of the Surfrider Foundation.
I have spent a great deal of time writing including articles, one on Women in Surfing that was covered in Void magazine. I also finished my novel "The Nonconformist" which will be released in mid-2014 by Dorrance Publishing. The novel has a surfing backdrop but has a deep storyline and much intrigue. At the request of a Producer I have written a screenplay version of the novel that he is currently considering for a movie. The novel action is mostly centered on the East Coast but has action in Hawaii. The main theme is about being true to ones self, realizing our potential, making sacrifices and trying to find our place in the world. More to come later.
In the interim I continue to promote and conduct book signings for my two other books, "Chicken of The Sea" and "Byron The Lonely Christmas Tree" both published by Tate Publishing. My artwork has been featured at recent First Coast Surfrider art auctions where I have donated the art for the chapter outreach and ongoing activities.
I have spent a great deal of time writing including articles, one on Women in Surfing that was covered in Void magazine. I also finished my novel "The Nonconformist" which will be released in mid-2014 by Dorrance Publishing. The novel has a surfing backdrop but has a deep storyline and much intrigue. At the request of a Producer I have written a screenplay version of the novel that he is currently considering for a movie. The novel action is mostly centered on the East Coast but has action in Hawaii. The main theme is about being true to ones self, realizing our potential, making sacrifices and trying to find our place in the world. More to come later.
In the interim I continue to promote and conduct book signings for my two other books, "Chicken of The Sea" and "Byron The Lonely Christmas Tree" both published by Tate Publishing. My artwork has been featured at recent First Coast Surfrider art auctions where I have donated the art for the chapter outreach and ongoing activities.
Saturday, April 10, 2010
reunited
A recent reconnect with old friends on facebook prompted me to write the following blog entitled "Reunited and it feels so good"
For most of my life I have been envious of those who have either remained in the towns they grew up in or who have kept their connections with friends from their home towns.
For me it seemed like such things were just meant not to be. When I left for college I hated to leave my friends but wanted desperately to get as far away as I could from my parents and a home life which was unbearable for me.
As they say, watch out for what you ask for. It seems as if fate took over from there. Several years after graduation my parents moved fom my old town of bay Shore (actually Brightwaters). In addition I married young, became a father and was soon drafted. Between stints at various colleges, military tours and job moves we lived all over the country and states like Texas, nebraska, North Carolina twice, Virginia twice, Upstate NY and finally here in jacksonville, FL.
Class reunions came and went and while I had hoped to attend them on each occasion they either coincided with a birth, job move or some crisis or another which kept me from attending and reconnecting with my old friends and classmates.
Over time I finally gave up on the idea figuring no one would remember me any way.
I have been fortunate, in recent years, to return to LI and Bay Shore for either business or pleasure. Whenever I did so I would take a cruise through my old neighborhoods, past the HS, through the town and over to either Gilgo or Cedar Beaches for a surf. Whenever I did so my mind would be flooded with old memories of friends and things we had done together.
At times I would see familiar faces but was affraid to go up to the person and find out they were not who I thought they were. As for myself, and most likely anyone who has been disconnected with old friends for an extended period of time, our friends and the memories of them are frozen in time. They don't age. I always picture them as they were way back when and can not conceive of their changing and aging even if I myself have.
There have been many times I have wanted to re-connect but was a bit afraid to. I had been able to reconnect with several friends over the years but unfortunately those reunions were either not lasting or negative ones.
I am a person who highly values friendships and family relationships but also one who has been hurt deeply by certain friends and family members. As such I guess I have been a bit reluctant to reconnect out of fear of getting hurt. I worried that either they would not remember me or that I had somehow hurt them or let them down and they would not want to re-connect.
In addition, I have such a vivid memory of things (prior to my numerous concussios and damaged brian cells from earlier poor drinking habits) and worried people might look at me with blank stares if I started to relive events with them.
In truth, I think about my friends from my early years quite often. I often pull out my old yearbook look at their pictures and entries and wonder how they were and what became of them. I would also relive adventures and times we had together and smile.
I quess my reluctance to go onto the computerand click of the site where you re-connect with HS friends and clasmates had a lot to do with being afraid that those old memories and feelings would be shattered.
Recently, I was invited by a friend to join facebook. While I am not a huge fan of the computer and of social sites I decided to do so in order to become a part of the 21st century. In hindsight it was probably one of the best things I have done as miraculously it allowed me to re-connect with my past and some of my dearest friends.
I have been fortunate to have made a lot of new friendships over the years. I greatly value those friendships and those people have been a steadying and positive force in my life. But there has always been a void in me from not having a connection with my past and my old friends.
There is a special connection one has with those friends that can not be duplicated.
They were the ones who knew me when I was the shy, insecure goof I was who accepted me for what and who i was. They were either first loves, pals I pulled pranks with or who patiently listened to my complaints about my parents or who knows what else. They were also the ones you shared dreams with.
As the old saying correctly states "make new friends and keep the old. One is silver and the other gold".
Thanks to Facebook and my friends who sought me out I now have the chance to finally re-connect with those (I hate to say old but at this point we really are) old firends. It may also turn me into a facebook junky.
So here's to some wonderful reunions. Mahalo
For most of my life I have been envious of those who have either remained in the towns they grew up in or who have kept their connections with friends from their home towns.
For me it seemed like such things were just meant not to be. When I left for college I hated to leave my friends but wanted desperately to get as far away as I could from my parents and a home life which was unbearable for me.
As they say, watch out for what you ask for. It seems as if fate took over from there. Several years after graduation my parents moved fom my old town of bay Shore (actually Brightwaters). In addition I married young, became a father and was soon drafted. Between stints at various colleges, military tours and job moves we lived all over the country and states like Texas, nebraska, North Carolina twice, Virginia twice, Upstate NY and finally here in jacksonville, FL.
Class reunions came and went and while I had hoped to attend them on each occasion they either coincided with a birth, job move or some crisis or another which kept me from attending and reconnecting with my old friends and classmates.
Over time I finally gave up on the idea figuring no one would remember me any way.
I have been fortunate, in recent years, to return to LI and Bay Shore for either business or pleasure. Whenever I did so I would take a cruise through my old neighborhoods, past the HS, through the town and over to either Gilgo or Cedar Beaches for a surf. Whenever I did so my mind would be flooded with old memories of friends and things we had done together.
At times I would see familiar faces but was affraid to go up to the person and find out they were not who I thought they were. As for myself, and most likely anyone who has been disconnected with old friends for an extended period of time, our friends and the memories of them are frozen in time. They don't age. I always picture them as they were way back when and can not conceive of their changing and aging even if I myself have.
There have been many times I have wanted to re-connect but was a bit afraid to. I had been able to reconnect with several friends over the years but unfortunately those reunions were either not lasting or negative ones.
I am a person who highly values friendships and family relationships but also one who has been hurt deeply by certain friends and family members. As such I guess I have been a bit reluctant to reconnect out of fear of getting hurt. I worried that either they would not remember me or that I had somehow hurt them or let them down and they would not want to re-connect.
In addition, I have such a vivid memory of things (prior to my numerous concussios and damaged brian cells from earlier poor drinking habits) and worried people might look at me with blank stares if I started to relive events with them.
In truth, I think about my friends from my early years quite often. I often pull out my old yearbook look at their pictures and entries and wonder how they were and what became of them. I would also relive adventures and times we had together and smile.
I quess my reluctance to go onto the computerand click of the site where you re-connect with HS friends and clasmates had a lot to do with being afraid that those old memories and feelings would be shattered.
Recently, I was invited by a friend to join facebook. While I am not a huge fan of the computer and of social sites I decided to do so in order to become a part of the 21st century. In hindsight it was probably one of the best things I have done as miraculously it allowed me to re-connect with my past and some of my dearest friends.
I have been fortunate to have made a lot of new friendships over the years. I greatly value those friendships and those people have been a steadying and positive force in my life. But there has always been a void in me from not having a connection with my past and my old friends.
There is a special connection one has with those friends that can not be duplicated.
They were the ones who knew me when I was the shy, insecure goof I was who accepted me for what and who i was. They were either first loves, pals I pulled pranks with or who patiently listened to my complaints about my parents or who knows what else. They were also the ones you shared dreams with.
As the old saying correctly states "make new friends and keep the old. One is silver and the other gold".
Thanks to Facebook and my friends who sought me out I now have the chance to finally re-connect with those (I hate to say old but at this point we really are) old firends. It may also turn me into a facebook junky.
So here's to some wonderful reunions. Mahalo
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